Dec

On Location May 07 – Mexico by Kieran Murphy

I was delighted to be going to Mexico – despite having travelled through Central & South America for a year I had somehow managed to miss out Mexico entirely. It was time to make amends and two areas in particular stood out for me: Mexico City and the state of Chiapas.Mexico City I arrived in Mexico City filled with apprehension and images from films such as ‘Amores Perros’ flicking through my head – images of a smog-filled, hot dusty Mexico City with crime and poverty on every corner. Yet my three days there could not have been more different.

The temperature was just right, being pleasantly hot in the sun during the day, and cool in the evenings meaning I had no trouble sleeping at night.

It is true that there is a serious problem with the air quality in Mexico City, largely to do its geographical location – a bowl surrounded by mountains that do not allow the air to escape. However it was not noticeable walking around.

I saw very little poverty and certainly never felt intimidated or threatened on the streets. Like in any city, common sense and being street-wise is important, but there is no need to hide away in your hotel room after dark. I headed to Santa Rosa, just a block away from Reforma, Mexico City’s most important street, to find a vibrant night life.

During the day, I pottered around the Polanco area, the most sophisticated district replete with designer stores and international brands such as Cartier and Tiffany on the Presidente Marsaryk. Not only home to chic shops but some of the finest restaurants, bars and hotels. Here is also the Parque Chapultec with a Zoo free to enter, 10 museums and the Anthropology Museum.

At the weekend on the south side of the city, the district of Coyoacan (home to Mexico’s rich and famous and the house of Frida Kahlo) has a craft market in the main plaza. The plaza is surrounded by charming little cafes and restaurants, and Sundays is when local families come out to eat for the day. At home, in the kitchen a sign is hung on the door – No Service Today!

Teotihuacan was an excellent day trip and a very impressive site, even if I did glaze over a bit touring ruins – nothing to do with the nightlife.. This was the largest city in the Americas until the 1st century and a superb example of Aztec archaeology and a must see.

Chiapas

San Cristobal de las Casas is a small Colonial town in the heart of Chiapas State. Here I found baroque facades, Italian cafes and daily markets, all of which made this town a charming place to spend a few days. What really fascinated me, were the surrounding Maya communities and the mysterious stories of the Lacandon Indians, a jungle tribe that very few people knew existed and were close to extinction.

I felt that San Juan Chamula a town central to the Indian uprisings in 1524 and again in 1869 was a must see. Refusing to conform to the Spanish desire for Catholicism, the Catholic Church has been stripped of pews, altars and all things Catholic, and replaced by their own saints, and provides a roof under which they perform their own rituals and offerings. The local dress is unique – with black hairy skirts worn by the women being a trademark. Photography is strictly forbidden here, hence, sadly, I have no images.

Zinacantan just across the valley from San Juan Chamula provided an interesting contrast. I found the community to be more outwardly friendly and was able to visit some local houses. I loved this as not only was I able to touch their beautiful textiles but to get a fascinating insight and feel for everyday life. For me the meeting of peoples and getting an understanding of their cultures one of the fundamentals of travel.